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Simon Calder’s Travel

Second cities are special for a reason, all that underdog energy without the ego – or the crowds – and Porto is no exception. While Lisbon has plenty to offer, from its Gothic cathedrals to cobbled streets lined with traditional tascas, nothing beats sipping a glass of port while taking in the sights of the River Douro.

The city fabric makes the best of its dramatic geography, built into steep hillsides and hugging the riverfront. Not only can you take a sightseeing cruise down the river, should you be willing to tackle the 230 stair climb to the top of Clérigos Tower or board the Gaia cable, you can see the city from new heights too.

This vibrant spot in Portugal is sometimes overlooked, thanks to its more popular sibling, the Portuguese capital. As such, cosy house hotels far outnumber the grand brands. However, don’t let that put you off, as you’ll still find a swish spa if you need one – some with port wine treatments, no less.

The best hotels in Porto

At a glance

1. The Yeatman hotel

Vila Nova de Gaia

A Superior Room at The Yeatman

A Superior Room at The Yeatman (The Yeatman)

A fully fledged resort on the city’s southern bank, the Yeatman mingles with the English port wineries hugging the Douro river. Naturally, it’s amassed an excellent cellar, open for tastings and seminars when you’re not swimming or having a Caudalie facial. Book Sunday lunch with a wine flight on the Orangerie’s eighth-floor terrace, or head to your private balcony, where views from king rooms (decorated in Tiffany blues and yellows) are equally stellar.

Address: Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal

Highlights: Best hotel for wine

Read more: How Porto became Lisbon’s cooler – and cheaper – little sister

2. M Maison Particulière hotel

Baixa

Get regal at M Maison Particulière

Get regal at M Maison Particulière (M Maison Particulière)

Somewhere in between an antique shop and a hotel, the atmospheric guestrooms in this red stucco townhouse are like bijou museums you can run amok in, with marble fireplaces, Baroque mirrors and original wood-coffered ceilings. Wake up and say hello to your ivory bust by the tile mosaic wall. Breakfast on the terrace is a sweaty affair mid-morning – better for your evening aperitif, with the cathedral lit up in the distance.

Address: Lgo de S. Domingos 66, 4050-545 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Regal atmosphere

Read more: Is this mountain region Portugal’s answer to the Alps?

3. Oh! Porto Apartments

Vila Nova de Gaia

Soak up the views at Oh! Porto

Soak up the views at Oh! Porto (Jose Campos c/o Oh! Porto)

The vantage point, looking back on the city from beneath the iron arc of the Luis I bridge, is very Brooklyn-on-the-Douro. Six hip little apartments fit cleverly within a designer concrete shell, furnished with Scandi modernity and wide window banks facing the river. With the port wineries in the hills above and Old Porto a quick stroll across the bridge, Oh!’s location is an unexpected triumph.

Address: Calçada da Serra 85, 4430-236 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal

Highlights: Best for views

Read more: Less than an hour from Lisbon, this little-known region is home to some of Portugal’s best beaches

4. Pestana A Brasileira hotel

Baixa

Old-school glamour is the order of the day at Pestana A Brasileira

Old-school glamour is the order of the day at Pestana A Brasileira (Pestana A Brasileira)

Pestana takes a grand Art Deco landmark and makes it personal with mid-century woodiness, low vintage lighting, sinuous velvet seating and warm – but not obsequious – service. Bedrooms are slightly too cosy for all the space elsewhere; bright space-saving bathrooms fare better. Hit the buzzy A Brasileira brasserie at breakfast whether you’re staying or not – the pastries are as good as any in the finest padaria. Or share the octopus on a light vinaigrette salad for lunch.

Address: R. de Sá da Bandeira 91, 4000-427 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Throwback luxury

Read more: Why you should swap Lisbon and Porto for this Portuguese city, where a glass of wine costs €2

5. 1872 River House hotel

Ribeira

Stay near the Douro at River House

Stay near the Douro at River House (River House)

If you got any closer to the river, you’d be on it. Refreshed weathered-stone walls and chipper whitewashed furnishings give the light-filled rooms a country-house feel. The breakfast room serving punchy juice and fresh fruit juts out over the river path. But for dinner, head down there yourself and snag a table outside one of the old fisherman’s cottages, now a string of traditional tabernas.

Address: R. do Infante Dom Henrique 133, 4050-080 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Alfresco dining

Read more: The best budget hotels in Lisbon for a cheap break in the Portuguese capital

6. The Editory House Ribeira hotel

Ribeira

The Penthouse at the well located The House Ribeira Hotel

The Penthouse at the well located The House Ribeira Hotel (The House Ribeira Hotel)

Every market, cathedral and monument you’ve marked on your map is close enough to visit in heels. Even if the rooms are just a tiny step up from a Premier Inn, this “river house” provides fringe benefits: coffee and cake in the bar and a sunny rooftop terrace from which to plot your journey. For a homely fried-fish dinner, walk a block to the tremendous Adega Sao Nicolau.

Address: R. do Infante Dom Henrique 26, 4050-296 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Best location

Read more: The best hotels in Lisbon’s city centre for stays near popular restaurants and bars

7. Porto AS 1829 hotel

Baixa

Vintage and antiques fans will love the history at Porto AS 1829

Vintage and antiques fans will love the history at Porto AS 1829 (Porto AS 1829)

The wood-panelled Araujo e Sobrinho stationery shop has operated out of this azulejo-tiled mansion block for nearly 200 years. In 2015, Lux Hotels designed AS 1829 to weave in and out of the showroom, setting up 41 rooms in the old offices. Handcrafted tiles replace chipped surfaces; plush velvets, caning and milky glass lighting update Portuguese classics. But the high ceilings, deep French windows and vintage desktop knick-knacks are all original.

Address: Lgo de S. Domingos 45 55, 4050-097 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Best for history

Read more: The best luxury hotels in Lisbon for a chic city break, from butler service to Michelin-starred meals

8. Armazem Luxury Housing hotel

Baixa

The Penthouse offers exceptional views across the city

The Penthouse offers exceptional views across the city (Armazem)

Porto’s best retrofit of a historic home sits on a street stuffed with boutiques, two doors down from the enchanting Claus Porto fragrance flagship – its own amazing renovation. In this former iron warehouse, 200-year-old stone walls butt up against polished concrete, deep iron staircases and a statement armoire around every corner. The light-handed service will please only some. But it does mean you can tinker at the honesty bar and tables full of curios without interruption.

Address: Lgo de S. Domingos 74, 4050-545 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Best for shopping

Read more: Octant Evora, Alentejo, Portugal hotel review

9. Malmerendas Boutique Lodging

Baixa

The luxurious terrace loft at Malmerendas

The luxurious terrace loft at Malmerendas (Malmerendas)

The scent of dewy grass from the sun-dappled breakfast room may just keep you in for the day – not to mention the still-warm egg tart and blood-orange juice. Unbelievably, considering the tiled facade, this 19th-century townhouse drips with leafy climbers, from lawn to roof. Book a rear-facing room – or the superior king studio, which is as chic as a Notting Hill garden flat. Come 3pm, the garden transforms into a wine bar.

Address: R. Dr. Alves da Veiga 186, 4000-072 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Best for greenery

Read more: The unexpected destination that is perfect for an adventure holiday

10. Vincci Porto hotel

Massarelos

Located in a renovated landmark building know as Bolsa do Pescado, Vincci Porto’s avant garde feel and furnishings are unique

Located in a renovated landmark building know as Bolsa do Pescado, Vincci Porto’s avant garde feel and furnishings are unique (Vincci Porto)

Not a city person? West of centre, past the twin steeples of the stunning Massarelos church, an Art Deco former fish market now functions as an homage to vintage design, with walnut-panelled rooms furnished for a Mad Men tryst. Lounge in low-slung designer chaises in the marble foyer, with its double-height whalebone roof, then climb to the rooftop bar for vistas over a helipad to Arrábida bridge.

Address: Alameda de Basílio Teles 29, 4150-127 Porto, Portugal

Highlights: Best for architecture buffs

Read more: An insider’s guide to the perfect spring break in Lisbon and how it stole Paris’s crown

11. The Rebello hotel

Vila Nova de Gaia

The Rebello’s interiors nod to the building’s industrial past, with contemporary additions

The Rebello’s interiors nod to the building’s industrial past, with contemporary additions (The Rebello)

Address: Cais de Gaia 380, 4400-245 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal

Highlights: Tasteful interiors

Once a pot and pan factory and warehouse, The Rebello’s tasteful renovation pays homage to the building’s industrial roots and portside location. The hotel’s 103 suites vary in size, but all boast fully equipped kitchens for a more independent stay. There’s an apartment for every kind of traveller. The Bello Rooftop bar is the perfect sundowner cocktail spot, with tasteful design details such as striped parasols and custom bench seating that don’t distract from the panoramic views.

Read more: The unexpected destination that is perfect for an adventure holiday

FAQs

When is the best time to visit Porto?

May, June and September will offer the best weather without larger crowds.

How much should I budget per day in Porto?

Excluding prices for accommodation per night, expect to send around €50 to €100 per day on a city break if you are eating all your meals out and shopping.

Are there beaches near Porto?

Porto has a number of beaches nearby. Some of the most popular include Praia de Matosinhos and Praia do Homem do Leme.

How does Porto compare to Lisbon?

Porto is smaller than Lisbon, but that means it is much more walkable and easier to get around. If you are looking for a larger city to explore with lots of impressive architecture, landmarks and museums, Lisbon is the place to go. Meanwhile, Porto has a more laidback atmosphere, and while is equally as beautiful, wine enthusiasts and foodies will enjoy a trip to this second city.

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