The timing couldn’t have been better. It was the week of the launch of White Lotus Season 3, and the hotel-themed show was filmed on the island of Koh Samui, where we were staying. The atmosphere was electric, as was our anticipation. So off two friends went in search of our own White Lotus experience, hopefully with all the beauty but none of the drama.

Our driver wound through the bustling streets, with people, scooters, and dogs moving in all directions. Driving past a beautifully red-bricked wall with lush vegetation poking out in parts, I asked the driver which temple this was. Turning, he flashed a quick smile, saying this was our hotel. In stark contrast to the hustle outside the gates, we were about to step into the sanctuary of Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa. There was a distinct sense of being welcomed into a sacred space. 

The welcome

Thai hospitality is renowned for being world-class, and this was evident right from the start. We were warmly greeted with smiles, a cool towel, welcome drink and tasty snacks. After settling the paperwork, we were ushered into a golf cart and began to wind through the resort. More on the gardens later, but suffice it to say that the intoxicating fragrance, in harmony with cascading water features, filled our senses.

The room

Stopping at ornate wooden doors, I knew we’d arrived. Earlier, the magical words “we’ve upgraded you to a pool villa” had both of us smiling (there’s something to be said about being a Marriott Bonvoy member). Pushing open the doors, we first stepped into a peach-orange tiled courtyard with similarly coloured walls, giving a near adobe feel to the tropical setting. Stepping inside the front door, a large open-plan lounge and bedroom came into view. 

The lounge couch doubled as a sleeper couch, with a large TV for downtime, along with a mini-fridge and coffee station. Conveniently, the front door could be opened with both keycards and the Marriott App on our phones – the latter for fuss-free entry. The four-poster bed draped in elegant netting meant that during the day the bed was a stylish adornment to the room, while at night, there was protection from any wandering insect. Adjacent to the bed and lounge, the windows opened onto a small pond – I would lie on the bed and watch a variety of birds visiting and splashing about as a form of respite from the heat.

The bathroom

Separated by bamboo sliding doors, the bathroom first housed the toilet cubicle, and after the vanities, the shower. On the room orientation, I was intrigued when the steward told me it was a dual shower and bath combo – opening the door, I discovered the bright blue tiling indeed formed a rather large bathtub, which later, I enjoyed with double bubbles (both in glass and bath). The amenities were provided by the fragrance-infused Argus by Margot Elena.

Through a sheath of white curtains at the end of the bathroom, the pool appears – a well-sized and welcome cooldown from the clinging tropical humidity. The pool’s clever design offers a lying section on one side and a deeper area on the other, complemented by loungers.

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The facilities

Meals and snacks are on offer at two restaurants dedicated to the gastronomic wellbeing of Renaissance’s guests. For all-day laid-back dining, The Banana Leaf offers international dishes from à la carte menus, as well as an opulent fusion breakfast buffet in the mornings. Meals can be enjoyed at the pool or even on the beach, with The Pool Bar’s mindful staff ready to ensure a never-ending supply of liquid refreshment.

At tawaNN, with its elevated patio and exquisite views of Lamai Bay, the taste of Thailand comes to life with handcrafted heritage offerings designed for the Western palate. Seafood is, of course, a mainstay, but the standout dish here is a Massaman Curry – slow-cooked beef cheeks with a rich Thai aromatic fusion curry sauce. Melt-in-the-mouth delectable! Meals can also be ordered in, and if you arrange with the concierge in advance, a barbecue can even be prepared for enjoyment in the private luxury of your villa.

The resort’s main pool is set in a courted amphitheatre and terraced straight onto the beach. At 50 meters, it is perfect for swimming laps or just cooling off in the swirl pool. Daybeds are available for lounging, and towels are provided. Sun worshippers are well looked after on the beach, with parasols and sun chairs for comfort, as well as full service from the bar until 7pm.

Off the pool’s walkway is Quan Spa. Set in its own enclosure, the spa commons offer tranquil spaces for restoration and mindfulness. Treat yourself to body and face therapies, enjoy the serene relaxation lounge, join a yoga class on the spa’s beach pavilion, and book yourself a deep penetration release massage – ask for Rose, who happened to have had a stint as a massage therapist in our hometown of Cape Town. 

The location

Renaissance Resort and Spa is a 30-minute drive from the airport and is located a stone’s throw from the famous Chaweng Beach. A range of local sights are easily accessible, including the Big Buddha Temple, Lamai Beach, and Bophut Fisherman’s Village. The hotel’s Navigator (the catchy term for the hotel’s concierge planner) is Khet, who has put together a bespoke 3-hour tour of the area using his local expertise.

Other nice touches

As one of the more established resorts on Koh Samui, The Renaissance boasts a carefully curated brand of the resort experience. Nestled among terraced landscapes of lush greenery and tropical richness, the resort emulates the serenity and sacred charm of traditional Balinese architecture, with carvings, statues, and a harmonious connection to nature throughout. Botanical galleries filled with exotic flora embrace you on every level. Featured highlights, complete with axis towers, sculptures, and bas-relief installations, all add to inviting guests into a unique and thoroughly local setting.

Particularly resplendent in the early morning when the lotus buds are still in bloom and birdsong fills the air, your walk to the restaurant for that first coffee – where by day three the serving staff has your cup ready just as you like it – sets the stage for the rest of your day spent in heaven on earth.

The cost

Rates start at around £209 for two adults in the guest rooms, rising to £359 for a villa with a private pool and courtyard. The Renaissance magic, however, lies in the value packages. Shifting to £359 for the guest rooms and £524 for the villas, included are: daily breakfast, a 2-course lunch, 2-course unlimited drinks for 2 hours, and round-trip airport transfers.

The best bit

The prime stretch of Renaissance beach includes a large granite rock with an equally large tree growing alongside it, providing shade at the top. The hotel has provided steps up the rock, and from the top, the views are spellbinding. I would climb up several times a day and sit there in my little rocky treetop spot, staring out at the beach. It may just be the island’s most beautiful location for sunset sundowners. Back at home, I knew I’d mentally return to this place whenever I needed a reminder of what peace and tranquillity feel like.

The final verdict

Besides the manicured gardens, luxurious accommodation, soul-affirming views, iconic beach days with full-service pool time, delectable food, and transcendental massage sessions (by far the best we experienced), it is the hospitality staff – who know what you need, even before you do – that are the unassuming stars of the show. From the first to the last “Sawasdee Ka,” you are treated like royalty. Service is delivered with unobtrusive grace and kindness. The Renaissance knows the nuances of hospitality like the back of their hands – extended in welcome and appreciation. Undemanding comfort. Restful. Peace. Welcome. 

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa.

Jared Ruttenberg

Jared Ruttenberg is a travel writer from Cape Town, South Africa. He enjoys connecting people and experiences through words, images and social media.

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