On a February afternoon in the Southern Utah desert, I’m in a tent staring at a leather backgammon board. Tent is the correct term, but it somehow feels, well, incorrect: there are hardwood floors that are covered with a beige knotted rug. Just beyond is a pool that juts out into the rugged landscape. White-cushioned chaise lounges sit by the edge of the water. And around the corner from me? A bathroom complete with an outdoor shower, indoor shower, a double sink, lavatory, and a bath that overlooks a towering red rust land formation. It just all so happens to technically sit within a canvas structure.

But that’s what one expects from Amangiri, a five-star resort in Canyon Point, Utah. The property is arguably the crown jewel in the luxury hospitality group Aman’s portfolio—currently, it is the most expensive hotel per night in the country. (Occasionally, it is surpassed by its sister property the Aman New York.) Hailey and Justin Bieber are repeat guests, as are the Kardashians, Jay-Z, and Beyoncé. DJ Tiesto loved it so much he got married there. And those are just the people we publicly know about—every given year, dozens of wealthy notables discreetly stay and don’t share what they did. In fact, so dedicated is Aman’s clientele that they’ve earned a nickname: “Aman Junkie.” (When I stayed, one visitor wore a t-shirt labeled as such, which he said he received after visiting his eighth property.)

A terrycloth shirt and athleisure sets hang at the Aman Cabana at Amangiri. Most clothing and accessories come in colors that correspond with the Utah desert’s red rock surroundings.

Photo: Tanveer Badal